From Scratch: Sweet Potato Primer

December 29, 2011

Sweet Potatoes
Photo by Nicole Franzen

Native to Central or South America (depending on what version of history you read), sweet potatoes are only distantly related to the potato. Once discovered by European explorers, the sweet potato traveled to Europe before making its way to North America, where it remains a popular staple -- especially on holiday tables. Curiously, American cooks aren't the only ones to create sweet potato desserts in the form of pies and cakes -- Japanese, Chinese, and Filipino cooks are among those who tap into its natural sweetness after the main course is cleared.

Basic Characteristics

Sweet potatoes are pointy-ended tubers with interiors that can be moist and sweet or dry and nutty. These members of the morning glory family come in hundreds of varieties, ranging in color from the deep sunset orange we know so well to pale ivory. In general, the darker the flesh, the sweeter and creamier the texture. 

Common Varieties

  • Louisiana: This is the most well known type of sweet potato, much loved for its orange color and syrupy flavor. This variety is standard in American markets, but rarely found outside the U.S. 
  • Garnet and Jewel: These newer varieties are prized for their deep-colored flesh and skins. They tend to be smaller than the standard Louisiana variety, and their flesh is moist and sweet. 
  • Jersey: A tan-skinned, white-fleshed heirloom variety of sweet potato that has a slightly drier, more fibrous texture. The taste is reminiscent of chestnuts. This drier style is perfect for roasting or baking.
  • White or Boniato: A white-fleshed variety with a less sweet, slightly drier character. Try frying these for a unique spin on the classic French fry.
  • Japanese: These have red skin and dry, white flesh. Mash this type for a nutty side dish.

Yams vs. Sweet Potatoes

Although the terms yam and sweet potato are often used interchangeably in the U.S., true yams are a completely different species from sweet potatoes. Yams are a bulky, starchy, white-fleshed tuber native to Africa. The pale-colored flesh of yams is a bit stringy when cooked and rather bland. It’s best in stews, soups, and casseroles where it can absorb plenty of flavor and moisture. Yams are most often found at Latin grocers. 

The confusion between sweet potatoes and yams dates back to the 1930s when the standard sweet potato grown in the U.S. was pale and dry. Looking to boost the popularity of the sweet potato, enterprising Louisiana sweet potato farmers developed a cultivar with sweet, moist orange flesh. As a marketing ploy, the farmers called their crop "Louisiana yams" to set their product apart -- the name stuck!

Selection and Storage

Look for firm tubers without soft spots, bruises, or any signs of sprouting; they should feel heavy for their size. 

Sweet potatoes don’t store as well as other root vegetables and are best used within a week of purchase. Despite their sturdy appearance, they can bruise and should be handled carefully. Store in a cool dark place with some ventilation, but do not refrigerate.

Cleaning and Cooking

Scrub well if you plan to eat the skins (a chewy, nutritious bonus). Otherwise, remove the skin with a vegetable peeler or paring knife. Once cut, sweet potatoes will turn brown if left exposed to air, so pop the prepared tubers into a bowl of cold water before cooking.

Sweet potatoes are wildly versatile. Try them simply baked in their jackets, sliced and roasted, cut into sticks and fried, steamed and puréed, baked into casseroles and gratins, simmered in soups and stews, or even grilled when the weather permits!

Sweet Potato and Pancetta Gratin Sweet Potato Soup with Feta and Zaatar Oil
Photos by Sarah Shatz

Some of our favorite sweet potato recipes:

Yellow Split Pea and Sweet Potato Soup
Variegated Spiced Latkes 
Sweet Potato and Pancetta Gratin 
(pictured above, left)
Sweet Potatoes Anna with Prunes
Homemade Ginger Pasta with Sweet Potato Wasabi Sauce
Sweet Potato Soup with Feta and Zaatar Oil 
(pictured above, right)

What are your favorite ways to prepare sweet potatoes? Share your cooking tips and serving suggestions in the comments section below or upload a recipe!

Like this post? Check out last week's From Scratch topic: Gastriques.

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