A Shared Tradition: Flatbreads

September 21, 2012

In her biweekly column, A Shared TraditionCIA grad and amateur food historian Molly Siegler cruises around the world (and into the depths of her pantry) to explore the versatility of a single food item. 

Today, Molly fills up on four flatbreads from Africa, Europe, and the Middle East.

Artichoke Flatbread
Artichoke Flatbread 

- Molly

Flatbreads are the little black dress of the kitchen. Hopping from brunches to swanky cocktail parties with grace, flatbreads whisper sweet nothings to dessert tables and bring a confident air to casual suppers. I like that about flatbreads. Plus, any food that can double down as a utensil scores bonus points in my book.

Pakistani
Soft and sweet, sheermal is a staple of Awadhi cuisine.

  • Saffron is infused into warm milk to form the liquid foundation of the bread.
  • Often, a few drops of the sharp, floral kewda essence perfume the dough (rose water can stand in as a substitute).
  • Midway through baking, rain a handful of poppy seeds over the bread, or tuck raisins into fork-formed holes that enlarge as the bread puffs slightly in the oven.

Norwegian
Potato-based lefse traditionally makes an appearance at Scandinavian holiday gatherings.

  • Starchy potatoes are boiled until very soft, and then mixed with butter and cream, just like starting a batch of mashed potatoes.
  • Gently fold all-purpose flour into the potato mixture to form a soft, pliable dough.
  • A thin layer of good salted butter or lingonberry jam keeps to the interior of tightly rolled lefse.

Sardinian
The cracker-like pane carasau is also called carte de musica for its sheet-thin appearance.

  • Semolina flour, a more coarsely ground durum wheat flour, makes its way into the best dried pastas and into pane carasau.
  • Yeast creates lift in the form of air pockets in this crisp flatbread.
  • Crystal beads of sea salt fleck the sheet of bread once it has been slicked with a layer of olive oil.

Ethiopian
Pocked, spongy injera is the perfect edible scoop for the country’s spiced stews.

  • Teff, an ancient grain with diminutive proportions, is used in powdered form for a nutty, high-protein base.
  • Fermented teff flour acts as the starter for this sourdough predecessor.
  • Cooling the injera completely before eating allows it to develop its trademark chew.

Grilled Flatbread Salad Provencal
Grilled Flatbread Salad Provencal 

These are just a few of the ways I like to travel by way of flatbreads. What other regionally inspired flavors would you use to make these edible tablets your own? Share your ideas in the comments section below.

Do you love a good food theme as much as I do? Tell me what food items or themes you'd like to see featured in this column and your idea could be the subject of an upcoming post!

Photos by Joseph De Leo, styled by Mariya Yufest.

Like this post? See Molly's previous topic: Eggs for Breakfast.

When she's not dreaming up themed menus and exploring the wilds of Northern Wisconsin, Molly's dishing out other delicious content as the assistant editor for the Whole Foods Market Cooking program.

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7 Comments Add a Comment
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    alexandracooks says: Molly, you are reading my mind! I have about 6 different flatbread recipes on my to-make list. There is a Turkish one stuffed with teleme cheese — haven't been able to find that cheese anywhere — that I really have my eye on. Also, I used to be obsessed with injera and had all but forgotten about it until I read your post! Love that stuff, and I love Ethiopian food... don't get to eat it enough.

    8 months ago Reply to this »
  • Molly1bw

    molly's kitchen says: I'm glad I could help to spur on your flatbread exploration! That Teleme-stuffed bread sounds amazing -- could you sub Brie just to get one round under your belt? I'm seriously into injera -- perfectly sour and spongy. Thanks for reading!

    8 months ago
  • Dsc_0122

    panfusine says: I think I spotted a cheese with that name at Kalustyans in New York City, while buying Halloumi..

    8 months ago
  • Dsc_0122

    panfusine says: Love these series and look forward to every new one in the series! Awadhi Cuisine is typical of Central India (around the Central Indian state of Uttar Pradesh) , rather than Pakistan which lies farther up in the Northwest. Typical Pakistani breads would include Bhature (leavened dough - deep fried) Kulcha and Naan which are native to the area around Pakistan & Afghanistan. Other flatbreads from India include the Akki roti (made with Rice flour) & Missi roti (made with chick pea or mung flour)

    8 months ago Reply to this »
  • Molly1bw

    molly's kitchen says: I'm so glad you like this series, panfusine! Thank you so much for your insight, as well. It is my understanding that sheermal is based in Awadhi cuisine (and woven into Pakistani cuisine) even if the root of the language and culture is in central India. It can be tough to pin down the origin of many of the preparations this column explores. I would love to do another post on flatbreads a little further down the road, and I'll come back to your suggestions for sure!

    8 months ago
  • Dsc_0122

    panfusine says: Sheermal is a signature dish in Islamic Nawabi cuisine. It most likely originated in the present day northwest region of Pakistan, and moved east to the central plains of India with the spread of the Moghuls and other Islamic rule. Gosh.. its fascinating to trace the origins of food back in time.. That wd be something to explore!

    8 months ago
  • Molly1bw

    molly's kitchen says: Thanks for the extra history, panfusine!

    8 months ago

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