In her biweekly column, A Shared Tradition, CIA grad and amateur food historian Molly Siegler cruises around the world (and into the depths of her pantry) to explore the versatility of a single food item. 

Today: Some people play with leaves outside. Molly prefers to do so in the kitchen.

Photo by Joseph De Leo; styled by Mariya Yufest

- Molly

Fall is my favorite time of year. The light is sharp and slanted, the breeze is crisp, stirring up just enough trouble. And -- even more than the warm summer months -- everything fall brings seems edible. Maybe that’s because we’re returning en masse to our kitchens, cranking ovens and happily settling in to an afternoon’s worth of prep work. With the crunch of fallen leaves underfoot creating heaps of autumn nostalgia, I figured, why not get in on the game, according to my own rules? 

I once did a scientific tasting of all the leaves in my backyard. Steer clear of the fuzzy ones (trust me). But many leaves are edible or can at least be cleaned and used as a cooking vessel. Cooking in leaves is a practice steeped in tradition and offers a wry wink to the harvest season.

Chinese
Joong are assembled in droves during the Dragon Boat Festival each June.

• Herbaceous bamboo leaves shape the joong and help to offset all the savory elements.
• Salted sticky rice melds into a uniform casing as the joong steam.
• Dried shrimp and lap cheong (sweet Chinese sausage) load the rice with unctuous appeal.
• A salted duck egg yolk serves as a translucent surprise at the center of the dumpling.

Greek
Two-bite dolmades grace Mediterranean mezze tables and can be enjoyed warm or at room temperature.

• Jarred, brined grape leaves feel vaguely olive-like and should be thoroughly rinsed before using. If you can find fresh grape leaves, give them a quick dip in boiling water to render them pliable.
• Long-grain white rice studded with toasted pine nuts and lemon zest is formed into a cylinder in the center of the leaf, which is then tightly rolled around the filling.
• Plain yogurt spiked with dried mint and fresh dill makes the perfect accompaniment.

Guatemalan
Tamales are found all over Central America and the Caribbean and can be either savory or sweet.

• Sturdy banana leaves are not edible, but impart a sweet, grassy flavor. 
• Masa harina and smoky achiote paste are mashed together with oil and warm water to create a thin dough.
• Seared pork is sliced and layered with olives, capers, and red peppers in the center of the dough, and then wrapped in the leaf in preparation for its long steam.

Hawaiian
Laulau is a simple, beloved dish that is typically served with white rice and macaroni salad.

• Taro (lu’au) leaves are used as an edible steaming package and are most readily compared to chard or spinach.
• Raw pork shoulder is seasoned before being added to the individually portioned taro leaves.
• A slice of salted butterfish offers a smooth counterpoint to the pork.

These are just a few of the ways I like to travel by way of edible leaves. What other regionally inspired flavors would you use to make these steamable packages your own? Share your ideas in the comments section below.

Do you love a good food theme as much as I do? Tell me what food items or themes you'd like to see featured in this column and your idea could be the subject of an upcoming post!

Like this post? See Molly's previous topic: Flatbreads.

When she's not dreaming up themed menus and exploring the wilds of Northern Wisconsin, Molly's dishing out other delicious content as the assistant editor for the Whole Foods Market Cooking program.