Members of the chicory family (clockwise from left): escarole, Belgian endive, curly frisée, radicchio (photo by Joseph De Leo; styled by Mariya Yufest)

Chicories, infamous for their brazenly bitter bite, often get brushed aside in favor of the mellow lettuces interspersed with them along the produce aisle. But don't let their more assertive nature deter you -- chicories are enormously versatile. While many people know "chicory" for its taproot, which is famously used as a budget-friendly and naturally caffeine-free coffee substitute, the term also refers to the full family of leafy greens that sprout upward from the steepable root. It is toward that tight-knit clan of leaves -- from frilly frisée to edgy endive -- that we turn our attention today.

A (Very) Brief Backstory

The Egyptians began cultivating chicory root for its medicinal and digestive properties. Later, the Romans decided they liked chicory greens in salads, and today, many chicories still sport Italian names, like radicchio. Chicories made their way to America in the 1700s, and their hardiness enabled them to adapt to the New World’s varied and often cooler climate. These days, chicory coffee made from the root enjoys the company of beignets in New Orleans (their are worse friends to have), but beyond the Gulf Coast, the greens take the spotlight, finding their way into myriad salad mixes, where their bitterness is offset by sweet lettuces.

Common Varieties

Belgian Endive (sounds like on-deev)

• Possibly the most well-known chicory, their canoe-like white leaves with ombré yellow tips make them perfect for scooping dips, hugging hors d'oeuvres, or adding crunch to salads.
• Endive is grown underground at first, and is then replanted in a dark cellar. The lack of light leads to their pale coloring. 

Curly Endive or Frisée

• Frisée's tightly wound, curly green leaves are often compared to a mop of unruly hair, and add texture and volume to salads both on their own and among other greens.
• Use care when dressing frisée -- too much dressing will weigh down it’s lacy structure.

Radicchio

• Distinctively maroon with bright white veins, this chicory comes in two main varieties, radicchio di Chioggia (a tightly wrapped grapefruit-sized head) and radicchio di Treviso (elongated red leaves shaped like endive).
• Radicchio's bitterness, like many chicories, mellows when cooked, and is particularly well suited to roasting and grilling.

Escarole

• Large, round, leafy, and romaine-green, escarole doesn't stand out on the shelf the way some of the other more colorful chicories do.
• Compared in both appearance and flavor to a head of Boston lettuce, this green works well with intensely-flavored salad dressings and accompaniments. Think: briny olives, tangy blue cheese, or syrupy balsamic.

Selection & Preparation

• Select chicories much as you would lettuce: stay away from wilted ends and brown leaves. Fall and winter find chicories at their prime.
• For Belgian endive, look for heads with just a bit of light yellow at the tips and shy away from ones on the brink of green. The paler the leaf, the less bitter the flavor.
• Prepare most chicories as you would lettuce: cut out the core, remove the outer layer if necessary, wash, and dry thoroughly. Store the leaves in the fridge, wrapped in a towel (paper towels are fine) to prevent spoiling.
• Pair raw chicories with citrusy or strong vinaigrettes to balance the bitter flavor, but avoid creamy dressings, which can dull their unique charms.
• Chicories also contrast well with cheese, dried or roasted fruits, cured meats, and roasted nuts. 
• If you want to try cooking chicories, escarole can be used alongside or in place of other greens in stews and soups. Radicchio and endive behave best braised, roasted, or grilled (regarding the latter preparation, halve the heads and grill them cut-side down for maximum effect).

Cream Baked Endive with Bacon and Pecans [Food52] (photo by James Ransom)

Recipes

Brown Rice Pilaf with Shrimp & Wilted Radicchio
Pineapple Shrimp in Endive Leaves
Slow-Cooker White Bean and Escarole Soup
Grilled Bitter Greens with Soft-Poached Eggs
Warm Fig and Blue Cheese Salad [Food52]

How do you enjoy chicories? Share your cooking tips and serving suggestions in the comments section below.

Like this post? Check out last week's From Scratch topic: Roasting Fall Fruits.